The iconic retailer has revamped its inventory practices to support a multi-channel selling strategy. The result: less overstock of seasonal inventory, more of the products its customers buy all year long, and a reduction in warehousing costs.
As it approaches its 100th anniversary, L.L. Bean Inc. is not the same type of retailer it was a century ago. The company started out as a manufacturer and seller of hunting boots, became a catalog merchant, branched into retail store sales, and now is involved in online retailing. Its evolution has prompted L.L. Bean, based in Freeport, Maine, USA, to modify its supply chain to reflect the many ways it does business today.
Five years ago, it became apparent that L.L. Bean's existing fulfillment strategy was causing inventory levels to rise. That led the company to take a hard look at its inventory and distribution practices.
The iconic retailer has since revamped its inventory policies with multi-channel sales in mind. A better understanding of product lifecycles together with improved forecasting helped it reduce overstocks of seasonal inventory, improve availability of products customers buy all year long, and reduce warehousing costs.
It all started with a boot
The story goes that Leon Leonwood Bean came back from a hunting trip unhappy because of his cold, damp feet. Bean hit upon the idea of stitching leather uppers to workmen's rubber boots to create more comfortable, water-resistant footwear for tramping through the Maine woods. In 1912 he founded the company bearing his name to sell his unique "Maine Hunting Shoe," working out of the basement of his brother's apparel shop.
A century later, the company still sells the original hunting boot (a 16-foot sculpture of one stands outside its flagship store in Freeport). Today L.L. Bean also offers hundreds of other products, including apparel for men, women, and children, footwear, and, of course, outdoor gear for camping, fishing, hiking, and other sports. Sales reached about US $1.5 billion in 2010.
L.L. Bean still produces its signature boots in the United States. It has two manufacturing facilities in Maine that make boots and tote bags and perform some customization of other manufactured products. Although the retailer sources 10 percent to 12 percent of its merchandise in the United States, the rest of its goods are made in Asia and Europe. "We try to source as close as we can (to Maine) where it makes economic sense to do so," says Vice President for Fulfillment Mike Perkins.
Sales channels expand
Over the course of nearly 100 years, L.L. Bean has diversified its sales channels. When Leon Leonwood Bean founded the company in 1912, he sold his boot through mail solicitation, which evolved into a catalog operation. Five years after starting the company, Bean opened a retail store in Freeport, Maine, which still exists today as part of a seven-acre retail campus.
Over the last two decades, L.L. Bean has expanded its retail presence at home and abroad. Currently it has 33 retail and outlet stores in the United States, located in the Northeast as well as in the Chicago area. The company opened its first international retail store in Tokyo, Japan, in 1992 and now operates dozens of stores in Japan and China. In addition, L.L. Bean sells online worldwide and mails its catalogs to customers in more than 160 countries.
Several years ago, the company separated its retail store and direct-to-customer fulfillment operations. Since then, L.L. Bean has operated two distribution centers (DCs), both in Freeport—one for retail, the other for catalog and online sales. "We wanted retail to own their inventory to do a better job of forecasting and sourcing product to the stores," says Perkins. "That's why we went down the road of two distinct inventory pools."
Shipping is also handled differently for each channel. Although customers who place orders online or through a catalog can select their preferred delivery method, about 90 percent of all direct-sales merchandise is shipped from Freeport by UPS, Perkins says. As for the retail outlets, L.L. Bean operates its own private fleet to supply its stores in the states of Maine, Massachusetts, and New Hampshire. It uses a variety of less-than-truckload carriers to serve its remaining stores in other parts of the country.
Too much seasonal inventory
In 2007, as L.L. Bean's Internet sales and retail network began to expand, the company decided to examine its distribution network to determine whether it could increase throughput capacity and avoid having to invest in a new distribution center. "Our fulfillment capacity was being challenged ? and we knew we were a couple years away from needing to do something," says Perkins. "We didn't want to invest more money in warehouse space when we could be investing that money in retail stores."
L.L. Bean worked with the consulting firm Fortna, which conducted a distribution network analysis. Philip Quartel, a Fortna consultant who worked on that project, says that the analysis encompassed transportation, capacity, inventory, distribution operations, stock-keeping units (SKUs), systems capabilities, and the impacts of any proposed changes on the overall business. Fortna analyzed data for more than 200,000 SKUs and more than 40 million order lines, which represented a year's worth of online, catalog, retail store, and businessto- business transactions. "Fortna looked at Bean from a service perspective and cost perspective, and at drivers like SKU counts, item variability, seasonality, and peak versus average days," Perkins recalls. "They took the system apart."
One of the most important findings was that the company's inventory levels were much too high. "They were carrying a bunch of inventory out of season in large quantities," Quartel observes. "Some of the SKUs were not [generating enough revenue to cover] the cost of handling them."
This discovery indicated that a different approach to inventory management was in order. "They needed to align inventory policy to service requirements," Quartel says. The solution, he explains, was to develop an end-to-end product lifecycle strategy that would segment demand and adjust inventory accordingly. "Based on the fact that certain SKUs did not require [a very high] fill rate and others would have a higher fill rate requirement, L.L. Bean could adjust their inventory position ... by determining the proper service level or fill rate per SKU," he says.
Core and non-core products
Fortna recommended that L.L. Bean segment its stock into "core" and "non-core" items. Core items are those for which there is fairly consistent demand all year. "Core inventory would be defined as things you don't want to be out of," says Perkins. "Core inventory in retail includes boots and denim jeans, which sell year 'round, day in and day out."
Non-core items, for the most part, included seasonal products, such as fleece jackets and snowshoes. L.L. Bean established a sales and inventory lifecycle for those items. As the season for a particular item winds down, it reduces the stock on hand and holds back on placing additional orders. "If it's snowing outside, toboggans are popular in the Northeast," Perkins says. "Around March, you don't want a lot of toboggans hanging around." To liquidate seasonal products, L.L. Bean advertises specials online and offers in-store price reductions. (The company does not have a lifecycle for core items.)
The company had an unusual problem when it came to rationalizing SKUs. Unlike some other retailers, L.L. Bean could not simply eliminate all of its slow sellers. Because the company has established its reputation as a provider of outdoor equipment for sportsmen, Perkins says, it has to carry certain products, such as jackknives, despite low sales volumes.
But the retailer could reduce the amount of stock it holds for these essential but slow-selling items and focus on carrying more core products. To help it optimize its inventory holdings and get the right mix of stock, L.L. Bean uses a software application it developed in-house to examine each item's profitability within the context of its lifecycle.
"The tool looks at all costs in providing profitability views," says Perkins. But, he adds, the retailer does not rely on this software exclusively to make decisions because "we have some items that may not be as profitable as others but are needed to round out our offerings to customers."
Same variety, less space
The results of the distribution network study led to some big changes in L.L. Bean's warehouse operations. As part of its lifecycle-based inventory strategy, the retailer has expanded its use of continuous replenishment. In the past, Perkins says, the company had done some continuous replenishment but often ordered large quantities of an item to keep in stock during a selling season. Now it is receiving smaller, more frequent shipments as needed from more of its suppliers.
The company also cut down on the amount of merchandise preparation that's done in its warehouse and instead began shifting that responsibility to its suppliers. How merchandise is prepared for sale depends on the sales channel. Consider a shirt as an example. If the shirt is intended for sale in a retail store, it will arrive at the retail distribution center folded in such a way that it will fit on a store shelf, bearing a price tag and an adhesive strip indicating the size. A shirt intended for online sale, by contrast, will arrive at the direct-to-customer DC with collar stiffeners and pins, which prevent the shirt from wrinkling during handling, shipping, and delivery.
Although L. L. Bean realizes that it costs more to maintain two inventory pools, it's sticking with that approach for now. "We understand that there's a cost involved with separate inventories, but we don't want to do a lot of the prep work ourselves," says Perkins.
As a result of having a better handle on its inventory mix and quantities, L.L. Bean has been able to avoid the need to construct another distribution center. In fact, the company has done so well in this regard, Perkins says, that this year it was able to close a 150,000- square-foot warehouse that it had leased for extra space for the past 20 years. The storage from the leased building was absorbed into the two main distribution centers.ding was absorbed into the two main distribution centers.
Focusing on product lifecycles does not mean that L.L. Bean carries less variety than it did in the past. Instead, it adjusts the amounts in stock to better match anticipated sales. In fact, thanks to targeted, more precise management of its stock, the retailer is now able to fulfill customer orders across multiple sales channels with little or no excess inventory. "We have a selling strategy to make sure that the customer gets what he or she wants, when he or she wants it," says Perkins, "but we don't want to be warehousing it when the season is over."
Businesses are cautiously optimistic as peak holiday shipping season draws near, with many anticipating year-over-year sales increases as they continue to battle challenging supply chain conditions.
That’s according to the DHL 2024 Peak Season Shipping Survey, released today by express shipping service provider DHL Express U.S. The company surveyed small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) to gauge their holiday business outlook compared to last year and found that a mix of optimism and “strategic caution” prevail ahead of this year’s peak.
Nearly half (48%) of the SMEs surveyed said they expect higher holiday sales compared to 2023, while 44% said they expect sales to remain on par with last year, and just 8% said they foresee a decline. Respondents said the main challenges to hitting those goals are supply chain problems (35%), inflation and fluctuating consumer demand (34%), staffing (16%), and inventory challenges (14%).
But respondents said they have strategies in place to tackle those issues. Many said they began preparing for holiday season earlier this year—with 45% saying they started planning in Q2 or earlier, up from 39% last year. Other strategies include expanding into international markets (35%) and leveraging holiday discounts (32%).
Sixty percent of respondents said they will prioritize personalized customer service as a way to enhance customer interactions and loyalty this year. Still others said they will invest in enhanced web and mobile experiences (23%) and eco-friendly practices (13%) to draw customers this holiday season.
The practice consists of 5,000 professionals from Accenture and from Avanade—the consulting firm’s joint venture with Microsoft. They will be supported by Microsoft product specialists who will work closely with the Accenture Center for Advanced AI. Together, that group will collaborate on AI and Copilot agent templates, extensions, plugins, and connectors to help organizations leverage their data and gen AI to reduce costs, improve efficiencies and drive growth, they said on Thursday.
Accenture and Avanade say they have already developed some AI tools for these applications. For example, a supplier discovery and risk agent can deliver real-time market insights, agile supply chain responses, and better vendor selection, which could result in up to 15% cost savings. And a procure-to-pay agent could improve efficiency by up to 40% and enhance vendor relations and satisfaction by addressing urgent payment requirements and avoiding disruptions of key services
Likewise, they have also built solutions for clients using Microsoft 365 Copilot technology. For example, they have created Copilots for a variety of industries and functions including finance, manufacturing, supply chain, retail, and consumer goods and healthcare.
Another part of the new practice will be educating clients how to use the technology, using an “Azure Generative AI Engineer Nanodegree program” to teach users how to design, build, and operationalize AI-driven applications on Azure, Microsoft’s cloud computing platform. The online classes will teach learners how to use AI models to solve real-world problems through automation, data insights, and generative AI solutions, the firms said.
“We are pleased to deepen our collaboration with Accenture to help our mutual customers develop AI-first business processes responsibly and securely, while helping them drive market differentiation,” Judson Althoff, executive vice president and chief commercial officer at Microsoft, said in a release. “By bringing together Copilots and human ambition, paired with the autonomous capabilities of an agent, we can accelerate AI transformation for organizations across industries and help them realize successful business outcomes through pragmatic innovation.”
Census data showed that overall retail sales in October were up 0.4% seasonally adjusted month over month and up 2.8% unadjusted year over year. That compared with increases of 0.8% month over month and 2% year over year in September.
October’s core retail sales as defined by NRF — based on the Census data but excluding automobile dealers, gasoline stations and restaurants — were unchanged seasonally adjusted month over month but up 5.4% unadjusted year over year.
Core sales were up 3.5% year over year for the first 10 months of the year, in line with NRF’s forecast for 2024 retail sales to grow between 2.5% and 3.5% over 2023. NRF is forecasting that 2024 holiday sales during November and December will also increase between 2.5% and 3.5% over the same time last year.
“October’s pickup in retail sales shows a healthy pace of spending as many consumers got an early start on holiday shopping,” NRF Chief Economist Jack Kleinhenz said in a release. “October sales were a good early step forward into the holiday shopping season, which is now fully underway. Falling energy prices have likely provided extra dollars for household spending on retail merchandise.”
Despite that positive trend, market watchers cautioned that retailers still need to offer competitive value propositions and customer experience in order to succeed in the holiday season. “The American consumer has been more resilient than anyone could have expected. But that isn’t a free pass for retailers to under invest in their stores,” Nikki Baird, VP of strategy & product at Aptos, a solutions provider of unified retail technology based out of Alpharetta, Georgia, said in a statement. “They need to make investments in labor, customer experience tech, and digital transformation. It has been too easy to kick the can down the road until you suddenly realize there’s no road left.”
A similar message came from Chip West, a retail and consumer behavior expert at the marketing, packaging, print and supply chain solutions provider RRD. “October’s increase proved to be slightly better than projections and was likely boosted by lower fuel prices. As inflation slowed for a number of months, prices in several categories have stabilized, with some even showing declines, offering further relief to consumers,” West said. “The data also looks to be a positive sign as we kick off the holiday shopping season. Promotions and discounts will play a prominent role in holiday shopping behavior as they are key influencers in consumer’s purchasing decisions.”
Third-party logistics (3PL) providers’ share of large real estate leases across the U.S. rose significantly through the third quarter of 2024 compared to the same time last year, as more retailers and wholesalers have been outsourcing their warehouse and distribution operations to 3PLs, according to a report from real estate firm CBRE.
Specifically, 3PLs’ share of bulk industrial leasing activity—covering leases of 100,000 square feet or more—rose to 34.1% through Q3 of this year from 30.6% through Q3 last year. By raw numbers, 3PLs have accounted for 498 bulk leases so far this year, up by 9% from the 457 at this time last year.
By category, 3PLs’ share of 34.1% ranked above other occupier types such as: general retail and wholesale (26.6), food and beverage (9.0), automobiles, tires, and parts (7.9), manufacturing (6.2), building materials and construction (5.6), e-commerce only (5.6), medical (2.7), and undisclosed (2.3).
On a quarterly basis, bulk leasing by 3PLs has steadily increased this year, reversing the steadily decreasing trend of 2023. CBRE pointed to three main reasons for that resurgence:
Import Flexibility. Labor disruptions, extreme weather patterns, and geopolitical uncertainty have led many companies to diversify their import locations. Using 3PLs allows for more inventory flexibility, a key component to retailer success in times of uncertainty.
Capital Allocation/Preservation. Warehousing and distribution of goods is expensive, draining capital resources for transportation costs, rent, or labor. But outsourcing to 3PLs provides companies with more flexibility to increase or decrease their inventories without any risk of signing their own lease commitments. And using a 3PL also allows companies to switch supply chain costs from capital to operational expenses.
Focus on Core Competency. Outsourcing their logistics operations to 3PLs allows companies to focus on core business competencies that drive revenue, such as product development, sales, and customer service.
Looking into the future, these same trends will continue to drive 3PL warehouse demand, CBRE said. Economic, geopolitical and supply chain uncertainty will remain prevalent in the coming quarters but will not diminish the need to effectively manage inventory levels.
That result came from the company’s “GEP Global Supply Chain Volatility Index,” an indicator tracking demand conditions, shortages, transportation costs, inventories, and backlogs based on a monthly survey of 27,000 businesses. The October index number was -0.39, which was up only slightly from its level of -0.43 in September.
Researchers found a steep rise in slack across North American supply chains due to declining factory activity in the U.S. In fact, purchasing managers at U.S. manufacturers made their strongest cutbacks to buying volumes in nearly a year and a half, indicating that factories in the world's largest economy are preparing for lower production volumes, GEP said.
Elsewhere, suppliers feeding Asia also reported spare capacity in October, albeit to a lesser degree than seen in Western markets. Europe's industrial plight remained a key feature of the data in October, as vendor capacity was significantly underutilized, reflecting a continuation of subdued demand in key manufacturing hubs across the continent.
"We're in a buyers' market. October is the fourth straight month that suppliers worldwide reported spare capacity, with notable contractions in factory demand across North America and Europe, underscoring the challenging outlook for Western manufacturers," Todd Bremer, vice president, GEP, said in a release. "President-elect Trump inherits U.S. manufacturers with plenty of spare capacity while in contrast, China's modest rebound and strong expansion in India demonstrate greater resilience in Asia."